December 2008    Yes, that's Mt. Everest above on the right!

31 December 2008    "The Fellowship" - Day 14 - Dude, That's HIGH!

Gorakshep - Kala Patthar (5545 m) 18192 ft. - Lobuche (4930 m / 6 hours) 16174 ft.

The trail becomes rougher now as it makes steeper ascent when it crosses several side moraines past the Gorakshep.  From here onward you will find the trail in constantly changing all the way across the moraine through the snow and glaciers.  Route finding techniques here include looking for stone cairns (heaps of stone and rocks) as markers, a sure sign of the correct trail.  After rounding a bend, the trail leads to the base of the small peak - Kala Patthar.  We start early to climb the viewing peak Kala Patthar to see sunrise over Everest.  The ascent is steep, so it is important to take it slow and maintain a steady pace.  It takes up to to 2½ hours to reach the summit at 5600 m (18372 ft), the highest point on the trek, and the best vantage point to view Everest.  Here the view is outstanding, with 360 degree panorama of the mountains, and emotional experience.  We return by the same route down to Gorakshep and then down the valley to Periche.  Tonight you should sleep well, benefitting from a significant descent.  Walking time: 8½ - 9 hours.  Final altitude: 4200 m. (13779 ft)

30 December 2008    An "I Love India" reminder...

Last night we were invited to an after Christmas party at an Indian friend's home, Sujata Peddely (totally spelling that wrong).  I was in quite a mood yesterday and was having a difficult time finding the motivation to go and get out of the house, but I'm so glad I did.  There were several families there, all from church, the mission president and his wife, another missionary couple, Kelly and kids, were the only other ex-pats there.  There were 4 other Indian families there, not including the Peddelys.  We had a very brief FHE lesson, followed by a spectacular meal.  I ate quickly and then "forced" my way into the kitchen to help.  The other Indian women would not eat until they had served everyone.  I took over for them and "encouraged" them to sit and visit with everyone and eat.  One of the husbands saw me serving and commented "I'm impressed, sister."  "Why?" I replied.  "You are serving."  I just smiled and realized that stereotypes go both ways.  After everyone had eaten, we were all sitting around talking.  It can't even tell you how much I enjoyed that.  The conversation turned to languages and cultures and we all discovered how many languages everyone spoke.  I think the winner for the evening, Bro. Ambrose, spoke 8 languages. Boy, do I have an inferiority complex... I couldn't even pick up Spanish with 4 years in High School.  Kelly and I asked if they thought all "white people" look the same to them.  They laughed and said "no, but we can't tell Chinese, Japanese or Koreans apart."  Me neither.  Brother Joseph is of Nepali descent and said that he could a little, but smiled because he looks more like them.  I asked them how they could tell where someone is from, since everyone in India seems to be able to size up their fellow Indian in a matter of seconds and tell you which part of India they come from.  The consensus was surprisingly not skin color, as the culture books suggested, but dress, accent, and even hair style.  I had to laugh at that... that's exactly what we do in America.  We can easily tell someone from New York City, or Texas, or Boston, or even Utah for that matter using the same techniques.  I really enjoyed the evening, most of all because it reminded me how much I LOVE India and why, and that this experience has changed me forever.  We are not so different as we imagine ourselves to be. 

I also watched another Bollywood movie that I've been wanting to see called Jodha Akbar.  The main actor/actress of the film are quite good-looking, and the music is very good.  I really like the storyline, despite the poorly choreographed fight scenes.  So much potential, so little delivery.  Recommended.

"The Fellowship" - Day 13 - The Big Day

Lobuche - Everest Base Camp (5364 m) 17598 ft - Gorakshep (5170 m / 7 hours) 16961 ft

The trail ascends along boulder fields and glacial debris to the edge of the Khumbu Glacier then continue up to Gorakshep 5160 m (16929 ft), nestled below the coned summit of Mt. Pumori 7191 m (23592 ft) and the sheer west face of Nuptse.  Excursion to Everest Base Camp if there are any climbers just return from Everest Expedition.

29 December 2008    "The Fellowship" - Day 12

Dzonglha to Lobuche (4930 m / 3 hours) 16174 ft.

The trail ascends the broad, gently sloping valley from Dzongla.  In many places the trail crosses small streams on boulders.  You can look back down the deep valley from Phalang Karpo to see how much elevation you have gained.  The views of Tawoche and Dholatse are particularly good from this portion of the trail as it passes through country reported to be the habitat of the snow leopard and Yeti.  Beyond Phalang Karpo the trail climbs steeply onto the terminal moraine of the Khumbu glacier then contours down to a stream, crossing it on a bridge just before the village of Thuklha.  The trail climbs up the moraine to a row of stone monuments of dead climbers, then drops a bit and follows the western side of the valley to Lobuche, a summer village that boasts several well stocked hotels. 

28 December 2008    "The Fellowship" - Day 11

Chhyungima to Dzonglha (4845 m / 7 hours) 15895 ft

You have to ascend from the pass, cross a small glacier, negotiate the ice fall at the end of it and descend via Leisyasa to our camp at Dzonglha Kharka 4730 m (15518 ft), a high altitude summer pasture directly beneath the north wall of Cholatse Peak 6440 m (21128 ft)

27 December 2008    "The Fellowship" - Day 10 - The Most Difficult Day

Gokyo to Chhyugima (Dragnag) - (4680 m / 7 hours) 15354 ft

A long day and the most difficult part of this trek.  We will cross the southern end of the Ngozumpa Glacier, pass by the stone huts of the Thagna Kharka then climb steadily up a narrow and steep valley which opens up to a wide shallow valley leading to our camp at Kharka, Chhyugima 5170 m (16962 ft).

I found a website of someone else's trek along these trails in the reverse order (which apparently is better for avoiding altitude issues) and have been amazed at the pictures taken.  The views my boys are seeing must be breath-taking, even without the altitude issues.  I find myself become a little more concerned everyday that I don't hear from them (not that I expect to), but I know that today's trek especially is extremely difficult.  I'm not normally a worrier, so this is an unusual feeling for me.  However, today marks the halfway point in their trip, and I can start the countdown until they return home.  I comfort myself that NOT hearing from this is good, because if they did call they were probably med-evac-ed out.  So... all must be well. 

26 December 2008    "The Fellowship" - Day 9

Rest Day for acclimatization

Trek around Gokyo Ri, the views in the Gokyo region are tremendous.  For the best view, climb to Gokyo Ri, the small peak above the lake.  This peaks of 5318 m (17447 ft), it's a 2 hour climb to the top fo the peak, providing a panoramic view of Cho Oyo, Gyachung Kang, Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cholatse and Twachee.  Those with more time and energy can make a trip up the valley to another lake marked with the name Ngozumpa on the maps or even beyond to a fifth lake.  There are several small peaks in this region that offer vantage points for the surrounding peaks.

25 December 2008    "The Fellowship" - Day 8

Merry Christmas far and wide to all our family and friends.  Dave and Z are still alive (as far as I know) and climbing today.  The itinerary boasts tremendous views:

Macchermo to Gokyo:  (4571 m / 5 hours)  14996 ft.

You will climb a ridge from where the valley opens wide as the trail passes through Pangkha.  Mt. Cho Oyo 8153 m (26748 ft) dominates the skyline to the north as you can climb the moraine on the left flank of the Ngozumpa Glacier.  The climb is steep to the first of the four lakes that lie in the Gokyo area but the trail levels off towards the second lake, Longponga at 4690m (15387 ft).  You can finally ascend a path past the largest of the lakes Dudh Pokhari to Gokyo at 4750m (15583 ft).  Gokyo is a typical example of Kharka stone houses and stonewalled pastures.

24 December 2008    "The Fellowship" - Day 7

Dole to Machhermo (4410 m / 3 hours) 14468 ft.

In the morning you will follow a steep but beautiful climb through conifer and rhododendron forests and stands of juniper to Lhabarma 4220m (13845 ft) and Luza 4360m (14304 ft).  There are kharkas wherever there is a flat spot and the slightest hint of water.  You will climb along the side of the valley, high above the river to the camp at Machhermo 4410m (14468 ft).

23 December 2008    "The Fellowship" - Day 6

Khumjung to Dole (4090 m / 5 hours) 13418 ft

This is the most difficult trek among the rest (I think they mean so far).  Leaving the main trail to Mt. Everest, we will follow high on a ridge to 4000 m (13123 ft) past a large chorten at the village of Mong, said to the be birthplace of the saint Lama Sange Dorje, the reincarnate lama of Rongbuk Monastery in Tibet who introduced Buddhism to Khumbu.  From there we descend to the village of Phortse Tenga by the Dudh Kosi (river).  From Phortse the trail climbs steeply through forests of rhododendrons and then stands of juniper and large conifers as the altitude increases.

A Koshish Christmas

A few of the younger girls (ages 8-12) from Church and their friends wanted to do some service for Christmas, so they organized goody bags for all 180 kids at the Koshish School.  I was able to deliver the English learning books previously purchased (thanks for the donation) and the box of workbooks donated by School Zone Publishing.  The girls brought some of their parents.  It is always good to see the mixed reactions people have when they visit the school.  The first response is always shock at the surroundings and smell, remember it's next to an open sewer river, and surrounded by cows.  The school is extremely small, and overcrowded.  The girls sang several Christmas Carols to the kids in each class.  My favorite part, though, was watching the girls get to the business of giving.  When they started handing out the goody bags, and interacting with the kids, you could tell their hearts were touched.  It's hard not to be affected, especially by the youngest kids.  This kids literally have NOTHING, but they have HUGE hearts and smiles that touch your very soul. 

As we were leaving, I was approached by a man wanting to start another such school a few miles away.  I think he had high hopes that I would have written him a very large check right then and there. Unfortunately, I am not as rich as all that.  I took down his information, and if I have an opportunity, will see what I can do to help him.    Here are a few more pictures from that day.

22 December 2008    Normal Life Stuff...  really!

Life really does go on outside of our travel to and preparation for Nepal, although to read this blog you'd have to wonder.  Some notable things that have happened these last few weeks.  B had her 10th birthday which we celebrated just as a family (and the Seiperts - they're family too) on the 14th.  She also performed in her first school musical - Aladdin Jr.- where she played an Agrabah Dancer.  The night before my boys left, Z received his Life Rank Advancement in Boy Scouts, leaving only his Eagle to achieve.  It's been great to see him actually catch the vision of what Scouting can offer him in life.  Z planned and conducted the entire Court of Honor.  We were very proud of him. 

"The Fellowship" - Day 5

Namche Bazaar to Khumjung (3780 m / 5 hours) 12401 ft.

You will climb to Syangboche, then trek to two serene Sherpa villages, Khumjung and Khunde 3890m (12762 ft) where Sir Edmund Hillary established his first hospital and Khumjung 3790m (12434 ft) where he established a school, both in the early sixties.  The Khumjung Gompa possesses what is supposed to be a Yeti skull.

21 December 2008    Update from Frodo & Sam

I received a phone call tonight from Dave in Namche Bazaar.  They are doing well and had their first Mount Everest sighting.  Pippin (M) and Gimli (T) had a bad case of what they suspect as food poisoning last night.  Gimli recovered fairly quickly, but Pippin had to be transported via hired horse to Namche Bazaar.  His condition is improving, but illness can't factor well in the overall scheme of things considering the degree of exponential energy expenditure required at those altitudes for "normal" functioning.  Frodo (Z) was a ball of energy on their first trekking day and fought hard to keep up with the "big kids" whose legs are twice as long as his, but paid for it later in exhaustion.  He has learned to play it smart & safe with a slow & steady pace.  Sam (D) has already commandeered Frodo's pack from him and relegated it to their Sherpa.  In fact, the group determined at the outset to hire an additional Sherpa for just such occasions.  Frodo now carries only a daypack with essentials and water.   Both Sam and Frodo were awed by the beautiful views, expressed love and appreciation for home and family, and gratitude that they were not feeling much, if any, altitude sickness aside from fatigue.  The food has been good, and the accommodations, so far, have been surprisingly comfortable.  Frodo did mention a few times, repeatedly, that it was really cold there.  I was concerned and asked if his gear wasn't keeping him warm enough.  He replied that he wasn't wearing it, ... and he was standing outside...  at night. (O....K....! Hmmmm, remind me again why we spent so much money on gear?)  Just for the record, the temperature in Namche Bazaar tonight  is reported to be 28° F.  I realize that all the elevations posted so far are in meters, and that doesn't mean much to us Americans, so I'll amend the previous posts to include feet as well, and include that conversion in the future postings.  Keep them in your prayers as they both expressed acknowledgment of and respect for the upcoming challenges THE MOUNTAIN will throw at them.

"The Fellowship..." - Day 4

Rest Day for acclimatization:

You can relax and take a look around the shops and Sherpa houses, observe their culture and life style in this beautiful valley surrounded by high hills and majestic snow-capped mountain peaks.  A hike to the Everest View Hotel in Syangboche will be a good option.  The rest day is intended for acclimatization purposes.

They are in Namche Bazaar.  Check out the link to see what they could be doing today.  I'm hoping no one has suffered too badly from altitude sickness, but at least there are experienced clinics there to help them if they do. 

20 December 2008 (still)   "The Fellowship..."  - Day 3

Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3450m  / 6 hours)  8038 ft

You will have breakfast around 7, and you will trek along the river crossing it at different points by means of wooden bridges at Benkar (2713 m / 8901 ft), Jorsale (2804 m / 9199 ft), and two Hillary bridges at the confluence off the Bhotekosi and Dudhkosi Rivers.  You will stop for lunch near the confluence.  After lunch, it is an uphill climb of over 304 meters (997 ft) towards Namche Bazaar.  here your Park fees will be checked by the Park Check Post.  There are shops, a health clinic, banks, and telephone services.  Walking distance is approximately 6 to 7 hours..

I found the above picture of what appears to be one of the Hillary Bridges that they actually crossed today.  Kind of gives you an idea of the awesome, amazing things they get to see and do along the way. 

20 December 2008    in the wee small hours of the morning...

It's just after midnight, and I'm still awake... normal that I can't fall asleep very quickly when Dave is gone, but unusual that I'm awake and grateful for laundry, and a sick child.  Now, before you go thinking that I'm glad my child is sick, hear me out.  Living in India often leaves me feeling purposeless (is that even a word?).  I don't have to cook, or clean, or do laundry, or iron, mop, dust, do dishes, carry groceries, shop for groceries, put away groceries, hang Christmas lights, pay bills, and the list goes on and on and on.  So, one could possibly understand the feeling of purposelessness (now THAT can't possibly be a real word).  "What the heck does she even do?"  - you are thinking.  That is a question for another time.  Tonight, however, as the 3 youngest and I were trying to decide what to do with ourselves on a Friday evening, A started to feel sick to her stomach.  She rested on the couch while we picked out "Roman Holiday" from our DVD library.  She sent herself to bed pretty soon thereafter and within 30 minutes or so came stumbling back down to announce that she had heaved her dinner all over herself and her bedding.  (Nice!)  So, my long shelved mommy-of-sick-kid skills kicked on the autopilot and I got to work, scrubbing her down, cleaning up her bed, and the mess in the bathroom, and started the first of several loads of laundry.  I tucked her back into fresh sheets, only to be called back 10 minutes later for another episode.  As I held back her hair and rubbed her back as she leaned over the toilet, I had a deep sense of gratitude that I am a mother.  No one likes to have sick kids, and cleaning vomit is usually not on anyone's list of "things I wish I could do," but being there for your child... helping them to feel a little better is always rewarding.  I took special pride in doing my first load of laundry in months.  And, while it may be difficult to understand what I'm talking about (I know, you're all thinking... DUDE!  You have such an easy, sweet, pampered, posh life there), I genuinely believe that the lack of household work in my life has allowed me to appreciate at new levels the simple joys they can bring.  The whole "staff is a blessing" vs. "staff is a curse" argument is one for another day, and that day WILL come; but for tonight I delight in the joys of motherhood and homemakership  (now that's definitely not a word, but somehow it fits). Signing off...

19 December 2008    "The Fellowship..." - Day 2

Kathmandu - Lukla Fly (2800m / 45min) 9186 ft Trek to Phakding (2600m / 3 hrs) 8530 ft

We will transfer you to Tribhuvan Airport for a twin Otter flight to STOL airstrip in Lukla that takes about 35 to 40 minutes.  Our trekking crew at Lukla will receive you.  After final preparations, the treeking starts passing Chaurikharka village, and makes a descent towards the Dudhkosi Ghat (2530m) 8300 ft. The trail follows the right back on the Dudhkosi River until camp at Phakding is reached.  This first day is short for acclimatization reasons.  Lunch will be served in Lukla or on the way.  Walking distance is approximately 4 hours. 

I actually got to speak with Dave and Z this afternoon.  Al was in Nepal ahead of the rest of the group for work and had been issued a phone from the Embassy that he was able to bring with them.  Dave mentioned that the runway in Lukla was ridiculously short and uphill, and ended running into a cliff.  Which means on take-off, it will still be ridiculously short, downhill, with a drop-off at the end.  He said several of the "fellowship" were FREAKED out by the landing, but he LOVED IT!  The phone connection was terrible, and Kelly made me get off quickly so she could talk to Richard (insert image of me sticking out my tongue at Kelly here), so I only talked with them for a minute or two, but it was nice to hear their voices filled with excitement.  I don't expect there to be cell phone coverage until they return to Lukla or even Kathmandu, so probably no more actual updates. 

18 December 2008    Nepal Again?...  or "The Fellowship of the Trek" - Day 1

Well, they're gone!  Dave and Z left this morning for their amazing Everest Base Camp trek.  I know I'm delinquent in other postings (i.e. B's birthday, Aladdin Jr. production, etc.) and I will get to that now that the trip is underway and the kids are out of school for a few weeks, but I know family and friends are curious to what exactly the boys are doing on this adventure of theirs, so I will post - everyday - what the itinerary is for them (taken directly from the outfitter's printout).

Welcome to Kathmandu: (O/N @ Hotel Vaishali)

Langtang RI Representative will welcome groups at Kathmandu Airport with a banner and drop them to Hotel.  After check-in at the hotel and refreshments, LRT office management and guide will formally introduce themselves and provide a trip briefing.  Group should have handled International flight tickets reconfirmation and submit 4 passport size pictures and Passport copy to the office management.  The rest of the day is free to explore the local area.

So, today's wasn't so exciting, but it's "for the record."  At least they are there.  Z was SO excited last night, he even slept over with his friends in anticipation of today's start.  I drove with Dave to the airport and said goodbye to them for almost 3 weeks, no phone calls, no emails, no nothing... sniff, sniff.  I've been weepy for the last several days (yeah, surprise).  It's not like he's never been gone for an extended period before, but this one has really affected me for some reason.  I have a little trepidation for their safety, especially Z.  A friend of ours who did this trip last year, lost 20 lbs on this trek.  Z doesn't have 2 lbs to lose, let alone 20.  Please keep my boys in your prayers. 

One a lighter note, as they completed their last prep hike last weekend, the boys determined that there would be nine trekkers in their company and dubbed themselves "The Fellowship of the Trek".  And so it begins!

Boromir (Al), Pippin (M. Byrne), Gimli (T. Seipert), Legolas (M. Seipert), Sam (Dave), Frodo (Z), Merry (C. Byrne), Aragorn (Richard Seipert), (Gandalf (Al's Dad) not pictured)

13 December 2008    Nepal Day 4

Our last day in Nepal was the most anticipated.  We had arranged to take a Mountain Flight - a one hour flight that takes you past 9 of the major peaks in Nepal.  Having been so disappointed by the clouds in Nagarkot, we were very anxious to see something... ANYTHING of the amazing Himalayas.  I was pessimistic at the outset because the smog/pollution/cloud cover in Kathmandu was a thick brownish soup, even as we boarded the plane.  Let me stop here and say that the plane was perfect: only one seat on each side, and everyone has a window seat.  Amber's husband gathered some first-hand intel for us about where to sit on the plane so we were prepared.  So... as I was saying... I was all set up for some serious disappointment, but the flight still went ahead as scheduled.  I tried to convince myself that we'd get our money back if we didn't see anything, and more money is always a good thing.  But... as we took off and finally pulled up through the clouds... this is what we saw:

Not even remotely the best shot, but it was my first glimpse; and it took my breath away.  My entire side of the airplane let out a collective gasp of astonishment, and the cameras started clicking away.  The first half of the flight the mountains were on my side of the plane, while Amber, the professional, had the return flight with the closest shots (and a better camera).  Each passenger had the opportunity to go up to the cockpit and see out the front windows the panoramic splendor through clean, unscratched windows.  The flight attendant was very attentive and made sure to point out which mountains were which on our little guide sheet as we compared them with the actual ones.  And, as I made it up to the cockpit, we were still on passing the first few peaks, so I was totally shocked by my first view of Mount Everest - completely identifiable, straight ahead.  My jaw actually dropped, and I was moved to tears (I know, I know, it doesn't take much).  For me, it was another "life moment."  (Insert image of me eternally genuflecting  before General Olmsted in deepest gratitude for this unbelievable opportunity).  Another powerful thought I had on this flight was that no matter how concerned or apprehensive I was about Dave's and Z's trek to Base Camp, I wouldn't want them to miss it for the world.  I took a few photos from the cockpit, and made my way back to my seat to catch a few more shots as we approached.  I got a few descent ones, despite the scratched and dirty windows; however, in trying to crop and prepare photos for this blog background page, I ended up ruining my best Everest shot (insert image of Ange weeping and wailing and pouting for several hours).   The plane turned around for the return flight and Amber's work began.  That side of the airplane had the best views of Everest looming large in the windows.  We believe the guy sitting behind her took upwards of a thousand photos on that flight.  Needless to say, this flight was astounding and exceeded all our expectations.  Had that been the ONLY thing we did in Nepal, it would have been more than worth it.  We finished the flight with some awesome views of Fishtail and Annapurna as we landed, and carried the euphoria of that flight with us all the way home!

After we landed we headed back to grab our bags and check out.  We had some time to kill, so we found a charming place in Thamal to have lunch called 1905.  It was a scrumptious lunch, and a fitting end to a most incredible trip.  One last noteworthy event happened at the airport.  Our bags were screened, then hand-searched prior to arrival at the boarding gate, and then screened again... and as we were on the tarmac actually boarding the plane, they were hand-searching our bags again.  I thought that was a bit of overkill, and had a few minutes of eye-rolling before I asked one of the airport employees the reason for this.  Apparently, on December 24th, 1999 at flight from Kathmandu to Delhi was high jacked, and ever since then this route has been under increased security precautions.  The flight was uneventful and we arrived home safe and sound, exhausted and exhilarated.  Check out all the photos from the entire trip. 

9 December 2008    Nepal Day 3

Our 3rd day in Nepal we left the hotel by 7:00am for the almost 2 hour drive to Nagarkot.  Supposedly, this is where you can see one of the most beautiful sunrises in the world, but we didn't want to leave at 3:00 am to see it.  The drive up was enjoyable, albeit cloudy.  We passed several really quaint villages, and also several military training facilities, just right next to the road.  When we finally arrived at Nagarkot, on the top of a mountain, we were supremely disappointed to find ourselves completely socked in with clouds.  (waaaah!)  We walked around the resort we stopped at that had a rooftop observation deck for awhile, hoping for a break in the clouds.  They had a great gift shop there that we wandered through, and when we realized that we wouldn't see the magnificent view, Amber and I bought ourselves posters of what we should have seen.  After getting mostly over our disappointment we decided to head back down and see some more cool sites on the way back to Kathmandu. 

Our first stop was Changu Narayan, considered the most ancient temple in the Kathmandu Valley.  Changu Narayan is famous, not for the temple itself, but for the stone statues, the bas-relief carvings, and the ancient inscriptions, dating back to the 5th century AD.  Some consider this location to be the most concentrated area of ancient art in Nepal.  We hired a guide who made it all worth it by taking us through the actual village of Changu in addition to the temple tour.  What I was most impressed about Changu, was the pride of the people there.  There was an adorable little girl who took our tickets and punched them - that was her job (we're not criticizing child labor in this forum), and there was a large sign posted over the entrance that read "Save our self-esteem, don't encourage begging."  Hallelujah!  So, the temple was very active as there was a festival going on.  There were fruit and nut vendors scattered throughout the entrance way, and a marching band of sorts.  Candles and oil lamps were being lit and offerings made.  It was definitely a festive atmosphere.  The walk through the village was very nice.  There is something very unique about Nepali villages, at least very different from the Indian villages we've seen.  And I loved that we were there during harvest time... the drying corn from all the windows and rafters was really fun to see.  Some of the village houses were really old, I'm guessing several hundreds of years old - and still standing.  Amber and I joked about how "city folk" we were, taking pictures of chickens and goats.  LOVE the whole village scene, humble, happy people, loving and living in their communities.  No wonder Indians (or other community-loving peoples) that come to America are lonely, they come from these vibrant, connected communities, to insular, isolated America.  We drive our cars into our garages, close the door, and go into the house through the garage.  We never have to interact with our neighbors.  We might not even know who our neighbors are for that matter.  It is a shame, and I will do better the next place I live.  So, as we came back through the village, our guide casually remarked that he was also an artist (insert inward groan here) and walked us to his "shop".  We politely sifted through a few paintings and then quickly took our leave.  It's so hard to walk away when you know people are just trying to survive and earn a living, but I don't like feeling obligated to buy something I don't want or like.  Just because I may have a little money doesn't mean I need to spend it, or give it to someone who doesn't have it... right?  (help me out here, I'm conflicted). 

After Changu Narayan, we drove back to Kathmandu and stopped at Pashupatinath - the most sacred Hindu temple to Shiva in Nepal, and famous throughout India, even Devender asked me if we went there.  Because it is so sacred, only Hindus are allowed in, but the grounds around the area have many interesting buildings.  The real focus of a non-Hindu visit here is to see the cremation Ghats along the Bagmati River that runs next to the temple.  Having heard that photography was not acceptable in Varanasi, we were surprised to see so many people openly taking pictures here.  After asking, we discovered that is okay to take pictures here as long as you are respectful and discreet.  It was reported that people have pushed past grieving loved ones to get a better vantage point for their photographs.  We tried not to do that.  In fact, I totally understand if you think it's totally morbid that we were even taking pictures to begin with.  We saw two cremations while we were there.  One was a "commoner's funeral" further down from the temple, and the other was a "royal" or rich person's funeral, help right in front of the temple. I can't explain the fascination it held for us.  It was an experience that covered almost the entire range of emotions:  sadness, gratitude, anger, longing, disbelief, morbid curiosity, amazement.  In addition to the cremations, we were on a mission to take pictures of the elusive sadhu.  These Hindu priests come on pilgrimage here, presumably because it is so sacred, but we wondered if it was for the tourist dollars.  They charge exorbitant fees to snap their photo, and are expert at avoiding the lens.  It was a fun game of cat and mouse for awhile, but then I wanted a real photo, so I gave in.  From the snapshot, it looks like I got my money's worth as I got a blessing too.  There were also a great host of monkeys roaming the grounds across from the Ghats, and we got some great pictures of them too.  On our way out from Pashupatinath, we passed the ubiquitous vendors, and I bought what became the butt of jokes for the rest of our time there (and beyond) a camel made from yak leather.  The vendor started at a ridiculous fee, and I really didn't even want it, but he kept following us almost all the way to the parking lot and negotiating prices, which was a moot point... since I really didn't want it..... But he came down so far, that I couldn't NOT buy it.  So in the end I came away with a yak-leather camel, and he made a sale.  I'm certain I'm the one that was duped, but it's was a fun, memorable event. 

Believe it or not, we made yet another stop that day to Boudhanath Stupa (spelling is different everywhere I look).  This is one of the largest Stupas in the World.  It really is massive, and impressive.  It was difficult to know where to look when we entered, because as you walked clockwise around the Stupa's massive base, there were shops after shops of Tibetan handicrafts.  Massive Stupa on the right, tons of shops on the left.  Stupa... shops... Stupa... shops... it was difficult.  We stopped for a brief respite at a Buddhist monastery with a giant Buddha statue inside, and then back to Stupa... shops.... ahhhhh, lunch!  We stopped for a late lunch at a rooftop restaurant with a spectacular view, and delicious food too... bonus!  The Stupa dates back to the 14th century, is 40 meters tall and has the all seeing eyes of Buddha on the four sides of the pyramid at the top.  The array of Tibetan prayer flags radiating from the tower are striking.  I really enjoyed this site.  When we finally were leaving, and were looking for our Krishna and the car, we were approached by a woman with a baby and an empty baby bottle.  I normally don't give, at least money, because we're told not to - not only is begging illegal, but it encourages the behavior when foreigners give (difficult, totally). But this time I really felt impressed to help this woman.  As I reached into my purse, she stopped me and pointed to a store just a few doors down.  All she really wanted was milk-formula for her baby.  I was genuinely touched by her integrity and felt her need, and her gratitude.  Amber and I stepped into the store, and while we were happy for the opportunity to serve, we were almost overwhelmed at the realization that we were in an actual supermarket.  We both felt like running the aisles like little kids, skipping with glee at the selection of grocery items, all the while thinking "Why can't Delhi, with almost more people than the entire country of Nepal, the up & coming  (possible) superpower, have a supermarket like this?"  Totally ridiculous!  We both wished we had brought more luggage.  (sigh)

We finally returned back the hotel, exhausted and thoroughly satisfied with another great day in Nepal!  We were definitely making the most of our time there.  We relaxed that evening by getting  2½ star facials at the 2 ½ hotel spa.  Did I mention yet that most people in Nepal speak Hindi (or how close the Hindi and Nepali languages are)?  I was very happy with how much I was able to communicate with people in Hindi, and they were equally pleased that I could make the effort.  I got a little glimpse of what Dave must feel like all the time when he speaks Hindi with people who are genuinely surprised and delighted by his ability.  It is a great feeling!  Stay tuned for the exciting conclusion of my Nepali adventure... coming soon!   I'll link all the pictures in the next Nepal post - promise!

6 December 2008    Nepal Day 2 - Durbar Square x 3

I had started this blog before, but had a major computer glitch that lost what I had already typed, then was so frustrated I didn't want to retype it all again.  But it's been a few days now, and I think I can handle it again.  So...

Our second day in Nepal we mistakenly ordered an exorbitantly priced room service breakfast and headed out by 8 am for our Durbar Square circuit.  Durbar means palace and these Durbar Squares were the 3 seats of power for the Newari people, the indigenous people of the Kathmandu valley around the 1600s.  Each palace was "specialized" in that they were primarily responsible for different things: Kathmandu was the central government, Patan was the arts, and Bhaktapur was agriculture.  This Newari culture is very rich in heritage and festivals celebrating several "life-cycle" stages, and a combination of Hindu and Buddhist holidays with their own unique celebrations.  I was very impressed with the unique style of Newari architecture with the best examples being in our first stop for the day... Patan.

Our guide in Patan was BP (not sure if it was an abbreviation, or is actual name so I won't try to spell it out) who was very well informed and spoke great English.  The different architecture of each building was impressive, and there was a festival going on that day for Krishna at the Krishna Mandir where dozens of women were ringing bells and praying at the temple.  It certainly added to the unique ambiance.  We were followed by several persistent "hawkers" selling their wares from embroidered purses to jewelry to musical instruments.  One of the particularly memorable stops was the Mul Chowk where we found relatively fresh ox intestines hanging over the doorway.  Each October they have a festival where they slaughter 108 oxen in the courtyard as a sacrificial offering.  We found these intestines hanging in each of the Durbar Squares, although their preferred sacrificial animal varied.  We made a stop at the Golden Temple, a unique Buddhist monastery which legend has being founded in the 12th century.  We also stopped at a Thanka school of art, where students are trained in this traditional Tibetan art, depicting various aspects of Buddhism.  It takes 15-20 years to become a master of the art. I procured my own mandala and wheel of life by a master, which I've framed and hung on my wall.  The Dalai Lama has created an atmosphere of cultural goodwill by sharing this sacred practice with the common people around the world.  He shares his amazing ability to create these mandalas with sand. (the sand link is a YouTube video of monks creating a sand mandala)  This devotional practice "centers" the soul through steady focus.  A completed mandala can be a tool for focused meditation as you concentrate on each level of the mandala (which is actually an aerial view of a stupa) eventually reaching the very center and a deep level of mediation.  Okay, probably WAY more information that was necessary, but I found it very interesting.  I also bought myself a "healing" Tibetan singing bowl.  The shop's proprietor travels around the world healing people with his healing bowls. 

 
Patan's Durbar Square from Angela McIllece on Vimeo.

 
Healing Tibetan Singing Bowl from Angela McIllece on Vimeo.

After Patan, we headed about 40 minutes out of town to Bhaktapur, probably my favorite of the three.  Amber's husband was less than impressed by this square so we had low expectations heading into it, but were very pleasantly surprised.  It was not as densely packed as Patan's Durbar Square, but our guide was really great and took us back through alleyways to other sections of Bhaktapur.  Durbar Square was quite nice, and it's fitting to say here that the lack of buildings is due to the Great Earthquake of 1934 in which many buildings were destroyed.  Even on the buildings that remain, there is evidence of distress.  And we found it a little unsettling that people were still living in these three and four storey buildings with obvious damage.  One of our out-of-Durbar-Square stops was Taumadhi Tole Square where my favorite building of the day was:  Nyatapola Temple.  This five-storey, 30 meter high building is the highest temple in the entire Kathmandu Valley, and one of the best examples of Newari architecture there is.  The stairs leading up to the temple entrance that only devout Hindus can enter are home various creatures in increasing levels of strength guarding the temple.  The bottom plinth is home to two legendary wrestlers, Jayamel and Phattu, said to have the strength of 10 men.  The next level is 2 elephants, then 2 lions, then 2 griffins, and finally two goddesses, each possessing 10x more power than the next lower guardians.  As we walked further back through the village there were several women sorting rice - sifting out the bad seeds, which was fascinating to watch.  We also ventured to Potter's Square, aptly named as they make all sorts of pottery here.  The kiln they use is open air:  they stack the pottery with coals and straw in several layers and leave it for several days... voila... kiln-dried pottery.  They had some beautiful shawl shops in the amazing alleys here.  Bhaktapur is also home to the Erotic Elephant temple, a sort of Hathi (elephant) Kama Sutra depicting elephants entwined in all sorts of amorous situations.  We missed this one, but I was asked about it when I returned, so those of you planning a trip, be sure not to miss it (or plan on avoiding it, depending on your preference) J 

 
Sifting Rice from Angela McIllece on Vimeo.

 
Throwing Pottery from Angela McIllece on Vimeo.

After Bhaktapur, we headed into town for lunch choosing the touristy Thamal location.  We wandered the over-the-top tourist trap shops and settled on little bakery.  Afterwards we wandered back through the streets and ventured into a store or two, pleased that we had shopped elsewhere for much better prices, and then headed to our last destination - Kathmandu's Durbar Square.  Ram was our guide for this tour and took us straight to Kasthamandap which is a building legend says was constructed with wood from a single sal tree.  It is from this building that Kathmandu got its name.  Ram took us off the beaten tourist path for a five minute walk to another interesting temple next to the river for which I can't find a name, but it had a really amazing shrine that a giant tree had grown up and over.  We walked back to Durbar Square and saw many, many other temples of all shapes and sizes.  The most magnificent temple, Taleju Temple, was not open to the public and even Nepali entrance is restricted to during the annual Dasain festival.  Another popular location is the Maju Deval, which has giant platform steps where many visitors stopped to rest.  It was funny to see how many tourists had stopped there to read their Lonely Planet guides.  This temple is also known as the "hippie temple" by the locals because of the number of backpackers who come here and smoke their ganja weed.  Some of the notable things we saw in this Durbar Square were the Giant Bell and Great Drums.  According to Ram, the drums and bell used to be rung each hour to denote the time, but with modern conveniences (which I took to mean wrist watches, and he replied cell phones) they no longer ring them except at times of puja, or prayer.  The Seto (White) Bhairab is a giant horrible face hidden away behind a lattice grill most of the year and unveiled each September during Indra Jatra festival, where the face is covered in flowers and rice and to begin the festivities beer is poured through his mouth.  Crowds of men fight to get to a drink of this "blessed" beer.  (Yeah, I totally believe that!)  Even our guide chuckled as he told us that one.  Jagannath Temple is the "kama sutra" temple in this Durbar Square.  There was a Kama Sutra temple in each of the squares we visited, but it was here that Ram explained to us the reason for them.  The Newari youth were married off relatively young without much experience so these young newlyweds would come to these temples to look at the erotic carvings around the temple to figure out what to do.  Hmmm, based on some that I saw, I don't know if they were excited or horrified by what they saw.  J  On our way back to the car we passed a open area that we affectionately dubbed the "crap lot" where dozens and dozens of "hawkers" were out selling their wares.  It was fun to browse the rows, and I even used my Hindi a little.  There was one memorable hawker who upon hearing that we were buying with Indian Rupees went off on an anti-Indian tirade, complete with English profanity.  We walked away from him and expressed our dislike of his wording choice, he later softened and tried to win our Indian Rupees when he saw we purchased from other "friendlier" sellers.  We finished up our Durbar Square tours and went back to the hotel, enjoyed a great Thai massage and a fabulous Chinese meal. 

5 December 2008    We interrupt this blogging...

I've been a little slack this week in blogging, but it's been a crazy week.  Dave had finals Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday, but is finally finished with this heinous semester of school.  Wednesday we had a fantastic opportunity to "meet and greet" the Secretary of State Condoleezza Rice.  She came to India to show solidarity with the Indian people after the horrific and tragic attacks in Mumbai and to encourage the exercise of restraint in their response.  We received an email Wednesday morning telling us about her arrival and wish to express thanks to the Embassy employees, American and Foreign Nationals.  I pulled the kids out of school early so they could attend too.  We waited around on the back lawn of the Ambassador's residence for around 30 minutes before she and Ambassador Mulford emerged.  She spoke briefly to the crowd and then came down to shake a few hands.  Z, & B, Dave and I got to shake her hand, and A got a picture with her, little D chickened out.  In true Indian fashion, as she came over to Dave and I who were perfectly poised for a fabulous photo op, a dozen or so Indian women pushed their way in front of us (sigh).  Dave and I just looked at each other and laughed... what can you do?  Kelly did get a picture of Condi and my ear though, how's that for consolation.  (Thanks Kelly!)  It was a great afternoon, and I was surprised at how excited the kids were to be there, and shake her hand.  Getting them out of school was a very last minute decision. 

In other "news" (I use that term loosely) we had our softball tournament last night and true to form, not enough of my team showed up to have a real team so we had to forfeit.  We played anyway with recruits from the teams not playing yet, and actually won the game score wise - too bad it didn't count.  We ended the season in 3rd place (of 4), not good enough for my competitive nature, but it sure was a fun ride. 

1 December 2008    Nepal Day 1

Finally, I'm getting around to writing up my Girls' trip to Nepal.  My friend Amber Flake and I took advantage of the Veteran's Day holiday and her husband's few days off work to take a breather from hectic living in Delhi and to venture out on our own, something I never would have dreamed of doing even a year ago.  We had a very uneventful hour and 10 minute flight to Kathmandu, where we set our watches ahead 15 minutes to be in the the correct time zone - GMT + 5:45... yeah, don't ask me why, I don't understand the 30 minute offset of India, let alone a 45 offset for Nepal.  I just run with it.  So we made our way through the technologically advanced airport (NOT!) and out to the curb where we were picked up by our driver, Krishna, and his 1970s era left hand drive (our side) Mercedes, which Amber swears is exactly the same as her grandmother used to drive.  He drove us to our hotel, the Crowne Plaza.  Now before you get all excited and think that we were living all "high on the hog" let me explain that while we thought we were staying in a 5 star hotel, it ended up being 5 star by Nepali standards which seem to be less than Indian standards even, and ended up being a solid 2½ star by U.S. standards.  So, definitely doable, but not living in the lap of luxury by any stretch of the imagination.  We dropped off our bags, ate an iffy lunch, and headed out to the Swayambhunath Stupa, affectionately called the "monkey temple" because... you guessed it... all the monkeys that hang out there - and there were plenty.  A stupa is a Buddhist monument, typically a mound often containing Buddhist relics. It is also said the the great Emperor Ashoka visited this site more than 2000 years ago.  (If you remember my "homework" a few months back, he was the Emperor who slaughtered hundreds of thousands in his campaign against Kalinga and thereafter embraced Buddhism - catch the connection?)  The "monkey temple" is located on a hill overlooking Kathmandu.  We enjoyed a leisurely hike up the mountain of stairs, noting the elevation in altitude from Delhi as I became more easily winded than normal.  Kathmandu sits at 4,500 ft. - not extraordinary, but noticeable.  The view at the top was impressive.  The stupa was quite large, much larger than the ones we saw with Baldev in Himachal Pradesh.  We also enjoyed the gorgeous view of Kathmandu as the sun set over the mountains in the distance... little did we know that those mountains should hardly be called mountains at all, compared to what we saw the last day.  Wow!  Can I say Wow again?  Oh, but I get ahead of myself.  For the time being, we enjoyed the mountains surrounding Kathmandu and walking clockwise around the stupa with a few monks in a show of respect before heading into the amazing art shops.  We were not prepared for the quality of the art available at what we would consider "hawker" shops, although with their proximity to some of the most impressive scenery in the world, it shouldn't be surprising that many people are inspired to capture that majestic beauty on canvas.  We spent a good deal of time narrowing down Amber's choice of artwork.  I resisted the temptation in hopes that Dave and Z will be able to choose a painting that means something to them after their experience later this month.  It was dark when we made our way back down the stairs to the car and finally back to the hotel.  We were pleasantly surprised with the Italian food restaurant at the hotel.  We satisfied our stomachs and settled in for the night in anticipation of our next day of sight-seeing involving three different cities and their Durbar Squares. 

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